Camisa Masculina

Esta modelagem servirá como Básico para diversos modelos.


Desenhar o molde com a folha de papel aberta. Deixe uma margem de 7cm do lado esquerdo do papel.

Figura 1

Trace o retângulo ABCD com as seguintes dimensões:

A – B = 1/2 da Largura das Costas
A – C e B – D = 1/3 de A – B mais 1cm.


Figura 2


A – E = 1/3 de A – B
B – F = 1/2 de B – D menos 1cm
Ligue C – E – F formando o Decote e o Ombro da Frente.

A – G e B – H = a medida de E – F mais 12cm.
G – I = 1/4 do Busto mais 4cm.

D – D’ = 0,5cm
Coloque o ponto J na metade de D – H.
Ligue F – D’ – J – I para formar a Cava da Frente.

A – M = Comprimento desejado para a blusa partindo do Ombro da Frente. Em média 75cm

M – N = G – I
Ligue I – N

N – P = 7cm
Ligue P até encontrar a linha N – M conforme Figura 2.



Figura 3


Sobre o molde da Frente trace o molde das Costas.

A – 1 = 2cm
Trace uma pequena horizontal paralela a linha A – B.
1 – 2 = A – E mais 1cm.

F – 3 = 2cm
Ligue 2 – 3 e prolongue até o ponto 4 de forma que 2 – 3 – 4 tenha a mesma medida de E – F do Ombro da Frente.

A – 5 = 1cm
Ligue 5 – 2 para formar o Decote das Costas conforme Figura 3.

I – L = 1cm
N – O = 1cm
Ligue L – O

Ligue 4 – L para formar a Cava das Costas conforme Figura 3

O – Q = 7cm
Ligue Q a linha O – M conforme Figura 3.





Figura 4

Coloque outro papel por baixo e copie o molde das costas com a carretilha.


 Figura 4_A

No Molde das Costas

5 – 20 = 10cm
Trace uma horizontal em direção a cava com ajuda do esquadro.

20 – 21 = 2cm
M – 22 = 2cm
Ligue 20 – 21 – 22 – M

Este espaço criado servirá para as duas pregas.



Figura 5

Recorte o molde na linha 21 – 20 e marque a prega com 2cm confirme Figura abaixo.




Figura 6

Trespasse da Frente

C – T = 2cm
M – U = 2cm
Ligue C – T – U – M

Figura 6

T – V = 4cm
U – X = 4cm
Ligue T – V – X – U.





Coloque o papel dobrado e a dobra para sua esquerda.

Figura 7

Trace o retângulo ABCD com as seguintes dimensões:

A – B = 1/2 da Largura das Costas mais 1,5cm.
A – C e B – D = Comprimento da Manga Comprida menos 7cm para o punho.
A – E e B – F = 1/6 de A – B mais 8cm.

A – G e B – H = 1/2 de A – E

Ligue A – F com uma diagonal e no encontro dessa linha com a linha G – H marque o ponto I

I – J e I – L = 0,5cm
I – M = 2cm

D – N = 6cm
Ligue N – F




Figura 8

Cava da Frente
Ligue A – J – L – F

Cava das Costas
Ligue A – M – F




Figura 9

Copie o molde das costas da Manga com a carretilha e abra o papel.

Marque o ponto O na metade de N – C e suba uma vertical com 10cm. de O até P.

Marque o ponto R na metade de C – N’.

R – S = 0,5cm
O – Q = 0,5cm

Refaça a linha inferior da Manga ligando N’ – S – C – Q – N com uma curva suave conforme Figura 9.

Confira a medida de N’ – N e com a diferença dessa medida com a medida do punho da camisa divida entre três preguinhas e coloque conforme Figura 9.

Medida do Punho: Meça o punho da pessoa e acrescente 8cm.

Observação. Ao finalizar o molde da Manga confira a Cava com os Moldes da Frente e das Costas. Se houver diferença e a Manga estiver maior desça um pouco mais a cava da Frente e das Costas.
Em torno de 0,5cm em cada Cava.





Figura 10

Com papel a dobrado trace o retângulo 1 – 2 – 3 – 4 com as seguintes dimensões:

1 – 2 = Medida do Decote tirada pelo molde.
1 – 3 e 2 – 4 = 7cm
Divida 1 – 2 em três partes iguais e marque o ponto 5 no primeiro terço.



Figura 11

1 – X = 1cm
Ligue 5 – X com uma curva suave e prolongue até Y de forma que X – Y tenha a medida do trespasse da camisa. Nesse molde o trespasse é de 2cm. Então X – Y = 2cm.

Com o esquadro na curva 5 – X suba uma diagonal de 2cm e marque o ponto Z.

Ligue Y – Z com uma pequena curva e Z – W com uma paralela a linha 1 – 3.





Figura 11.A

Recorte a Gola e abra o papel.




Figura 12

Trace uma retângulo com medida a largura do punho da pessoa mais 8cm por 14cm de altura.
Divida ao meio.



Figura 13

Trace conforme Figura 13




Figura 14

Trace um retângulo com 14cm de largura por 16cm de altura.



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