Camisa Masculina

Esta modelagem servirá como Básico para diversos modelos.

 

Desenhar o molde com a folha de papel aberta. Deixe uma margem de 7cm do lado esquerdo do papel.

Figura 1

Trace o retângulo ABCD com as seguintes dimensões:

A – B = 1/2 da Largura das Costas
A – C e B – D = 1/3 de A – B mais 1cm.

camisa_masculina_1

Figura 2

Frente

A – E = 1/3 de A – B
B – F = 1/2 de B – D menos 1cm
Ligue C – E – F formando o Decote e o Ombro da Frente.

A – G e B – H = a medida de E – F mais 12cm.
G – I = 1/4 do Busto mais 4cm.

D – D’ = 0,5cm
Coloque o ponto J na metade de D – H.
Ligue F – D’ – J – I para formar a Cava da Frente.

A – M = Comprimento desejado para a blusa partindo do Ombro da Frente. Em média 75cm

M – N = G – I
Ligue I – N

N – P = 7cm
Ligue P até encontrar a linha N – M conforme Figura 2.

camisa_masculina_2

 

Figura 3

Costas

Sobre o molde da Frente trace o molde das Costas.

A – 1 = 2cm
Trace uma pequena horizontal paralela a linha A – B.
1 – 2 = A – E mais 1cm.

F – 3 = 2cm
Ligue 2 – 3 e prolongue até o ponto 4 de forma que 2 – 3 – 4 tenha a mesma medida de E – F do Ombro da Frente.

A – 5 = 1cm
Ligue 5 – 2 para formar o Decote das Costas conforme Figura 3.

I – L = 1cm
N – O = 1cm
Ligue L – O

Ligue 4 – L para formar a Cava das Costas conforme Figura 3

O – Q = 7cm
Ligue Q a linha O – M conforme Figura 3.

 

camisa_masculina_3

 

 

Figura 4

Coloque outro papel por baixo e copie o molde das costas com a carretilha.

camisa_masculina_4

 Figura 4_A

No Molde das Costas

5 – 20 = 10cm
Trace uma horizontal em direção a cava com ajuda do esquadro.

20 – 21 = 2cm
M – 22 = 2cm
Ligue 20 – 21 – 22 – M

Este espaço criado servirá para as duas pregas.

camisa_masculina_4_a

 

Figura 5

Recorte o molde na linha 21 – 20 e marque a prega com 2cm confirme Figura abaixo.

 

camisa_masculina_4_b

 

Figura 6

Trespasse da Frente

C – T = 2cm
M – U = 2cm
Ligue C – T – U – M

Figura 6

T – V = 4cm
U – X = 4cm
Ligue T – V – X – U.

camisa_masculina_6

 

 

Manga

Coloque o papel dobrado e a dobra para sua esquerda.

Figura 7

Trace o retângulo ABCD com as seguintes dimensões:

A – B = 1/2 da Largura das Costas mais 1,5cm.
A – C e B – D = Comprimento da Manga Comprida menos 7cm para o punho.
A – E e B – F = 1/6 de A – B mais 8cm.

A – G e B – H = 1/2 de A – E

Ligue A – F com uma diagonal e no encontro dessa linha com a linha G – H marque o ponto I

I – J e I – L = 0,5cm
I – M = 2cm

D – N = 6cm
Ligue N – F

camisa_masculina_7

 

 

Figura 8

Cava da Frente
Ligue A – J – L – F

Cava das Costas
Ligue A – M – F

camisa_masculina_8

 

 


Figura 9

Copie o molde das costas da Manga com a carretilha e abra o papel.

Marque o ponto O na metade de N – C e suba uma vertical com 10cm. de O até P.

Marque o ponto R na metade de C – N’.

R – S = 0,5cm
O – Q = 0,5cm

Refaça a linha inferior da Manga ligando N’ – S – C – Q – N com uma curva suave conforme Figura 9.

Confira a medida de N’ – N e com a diferença dessa medida com a medida do punho da camisa divida entre três preguinhas e coloque conforme Figura 9.

Medida do Punho: Meça o punho da pessoa e acrescente 8cm.

Observação. Ao finalizar o molde da Manga confira a Cava com os Moldes da Frente e das Costas. Se houver diferença e a Manga estiver maior desça um pouco mais a cava da Frente e das Costas.
Em torno de 0,5cm em cada Cava.

camisa_masculina_9

 

 

Gola

Figura 10

Com papel a dobrado trace o retângulo 1 – 2 – 3 – 4 com as seguintes dimensões:

1 – 2 = Medida do Decote tirada pelo molde.
1 – 3 e 2 – 4 = 7cm
Divida 1 – 2 em três partes iguais e marque o ponto 5 no primeiro terço.

camisa_masculina_10

 

Figura 11

1 – X = 1cm
Ligue 5 – X com uma curva suave e prolongue até Y de forma que X – Y tenha a medida do trespasse da camisa. Nesse molde o trespasse é de 2cm. Então X – Y = 2cm.

Com o esquadro na curva 5 – X suba uma diagonal de 2cm e marque o ponto Z.

Ligue Y – Z com uma pequena curva e Z – W com uma paralela a linha 1 – 3.

 

camisa_masculina_11

 

 

Figura 11.A

Recorte a Gola e abra o papel.

camisa_masculina_11_a

 

Punho

Figura 12

Trace uma retângulo com medida a largura do punho da pessoa mais 8cm por 14cm de altura.
Divida ao meio.

camisa_masculina_12

Carcela

Figura 13

Trace conforme Figura 13

camisa_masculina_13

 

Bolso

Figura 14

Trace um retângulo com 14cm de largura por 16cm de altura.

 

camisa_masculina_14


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